The Dolomites possess a raw, jagged beauty that takes your breath away. The air is so clear, the colors so bright that you feel as though you have woken from a dream. Summer is particularly life-affirming, when from June to September the snow retreats revealing wildflower meadows and azure lakes, drawing hikers, cyclists and adventurists, nature-lovers and food-lovers. Pretty alpine towns such as Cortina d’Ampezzo – snow-covered ski resorts in winter – become destinations for foodies in summer, where slopeside restaurants with cinematic widescreen views serve up award-winning cuisine. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site for its exceptional natural beauty, the mountain range also holds darker secrets; it was a lesser-known front in WWI, bitterly fought over, and today you can see the trenches, forts, and tunnels within the Marmolada Glacier.